Sunday, October 8, 2017

Temples of Angkor, Cambodia

3:10 PM
Here's my 3-part series on our trip to the temples of Angkor, Cambodia (I recognize not all of you are on Instagram- so I've also posted here--I'm looking at you, Mom).

Hint: Make sure to flip through each of the three slideshows (still looking at you, Mom).

Angkor Thom, Cambodia, August 2017 (Angkor Temples, part 1 of 3) _ Angkor Thom is the former capitol of the massive Khmer Empire and was founded in the 12th century. There are many amazing sites here, most notably the picturesque Bayan Temple (each tower features 4 faces). Explore its winding corridors and take stock footage for a future Indiana Jones-style short movie, like Meilin did. You could also live Charlie’s dream of declaring yourself the king of the ancient rock pile, or just nap in the arms of a strong friend, like Cosette did with her mother. If your timing is right, you may run into locals fishing with weighted nets in one of the temple pools. And, there is so much more! _ The breathtaking view from atop Baphuon is worth the cliff-like climb to the top, though kids under 12 are not allowed due to safety reasons. After climbing down the seemingly vertical stairs (you’ll notice how grown men grasp the steep hand rails with white knuckles), you get a gorgeous look at the 70-meter-long Reclining Buddah that’s easy to miss for the less observant; at first sight it looks like just another ruinous temple wall. This is what I love about Angkor. There’s a lovely surprise around every corner, making it natural to channel your inner archeologist and seek life’s deeper meanings through ancient culture.
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Ta Prohm, Cambodia, August 2017 (Angkor Temples, part 2 of 3) _ Centuries of human neglect resulted in one of the world's greatest hidden treasures: Ta Prohm. Here, the jungle has siezed control over the temple site, creating a mystical setting that you thought only existed in a Tolkein novel. People come here for the invasive trees; tracing the unpredictable paths of relentless roots through stone wall is reason enough to visit. However, diehard Ta Prohm lovers also swoon over the detailed stone carvings that cover the walls and doorways. What hit me, this time, was the way light sneaks through the leafy cover,  illuminating sections of mossy stones and roots--it's mesmerizing and ever-changing. While you're here, make sure to pause and consider the intersection between nature and humanity. _ This was my 3rd visit to Angkor, but the first with my kids. After hours of corralling tired kids in the hot sun, I was thankful to have some downtime with my girls just outside the temple (while the others explored the inside). Here, I deeply enjoyed observing them interact with the site on their own terms. Amelia searched far and wide for the juiciest moss that could be home to the plumpest of all tardigrades. Cosette pranced around singing Moana songs, climbing big stones and dancing like a Larsen/Goodwin (hint: not well--but that doesn't stop us!). Meilin deeply pondered life’s toughest questions--in a way that only she can--while doing Amelia’s hair. For me, I guess this is what made “the 3rd time a charm!” _ These simple, but magical, memories with my kids helped elevate Ta Prohm as my new favorite Angkor temple. In the end, it’s thrilling to visit far off beautiful places. However, authentic happiness is created by nourishing relationships with loved ones, no matter your location. For me, this was a good reminder.
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Angkor Wat, Cambodia, August 2017 (Angkor Temples, part 3 of 3) _ French explorer Henri Mouhot said that Angkor Wat "is grander than anything left to us by Rome or Greece," and is still today the largest religious structure on earth. As you can imagine for the 12th century, the Khmer Empire employed highly sophisticated engineering systems to build and support this massive structure on unstable, water-soaked ground. Of all the ancient civilizations I have studied throughout my education, I am surprised at how little attention was given to this highly enlightened and advanced people. _ A lot has changed since my last visit to Angkor 15 years ago. Most notably, there are more visitors now, resulting in more rules to help protect people and the structure itself. This is a departure from the more 'explore-at-your-own-risk' policy during my previous visits. There are also many more security workers to manage the adherence of these rules. Another change is that cell phones are everywhere and many people unabashedly choose a screen over Angkor. To combine the last two, let's not forget to mention the security guards glued to their cell phones, unaware of rule violations happening in plain view, ha! _ What didn't change over the years, however, was my sense of awe and wonder of this magnificent site. In the words of my 2-year-old, "I luh you," Angkor. See you next time.
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Saturday, September 30, 2017

Balik Pulau: "The Back of the Island"

10:59 PM
After visiting a friend in a nursing home yesterday, we adventured on the other side of the island. Balik Pulau, or "the back of the island," is much more quiet and rural, making it a nice escape from the hubbub of city life. While it rained most of the day making us uncomfortably wet, our family fun far outweighed the thick stench of wet dog packed in our small car. 
On the far corner of the island is a small fishing village that's swarming with massive 6-foot-long Malayan Monitor lizards (2nd most dangerous lizard on earth). We saw at least 10 of them without looking very hard... We’re not exactly sure why there's so many more here compared to other places around the island, but we concluded that it's probably related to the food supply. We imagined that the fishermen throw their rejected salt-water ocean spoils into the freshwater stream, providing easy prey for the lizards. These guys looked very well fed (like small gators).
We later visited a small animal farm that opens its doors to the public, housing primarily goats but also bunnies, prairie dogs, puppies, and even an ostrich! Not sure what it is about kids loving animals, but there seem to be few things as engaging and interesting to youngsters. After one of our kids had a sensory meltdown, a quick cuddle with a baby goat calmed him down sufficiently for the time being (if only we had a goat at home…). Before leaving, we tried some mango-infused goats milk and ice cream made from goats milk, which tasted surprisingly creamy and delicious.
Penang also has beautiful sunsets! At home, Ellie has the best vantage point for sunsets from her balcony on the top floor, overlooking the trees, hills, and a partial view of the ocean:
Nature is very inspiring to us. By design, I believe, life will always have its stresses and troubles. And, no matter your circumstances or background, your struggles are real to you. Nature can provide a subtle reminder that life on earth has endured a lot of unfairness throughout history, yet it remains strong and beautiful today. For one example, historical weather blips that seemed to threaten entire forests often resolve itself in the next season, leaving minimal long-lasting visual impacts (as seen in the thickness of tree rings). The good news is that humans, unlike trees, have a unique ability to reason and problem-solve, often changing their individual situation and/or attitude for the better. In the natural world, that’s truly a superpower!

Wednesday, September 20, 2017

Erik Learned the Violin this Summer!

5:52 PM
Well, he really started learning the violin a year ago, but this summer is when he decided to take it seriously. He recently had his first concert, which was a treat for both him and us. What made it especially tasty was the summer-long journey he took to get there.

Below is a clip of one of our favorites from the concert (Tchaikovsky's Sleeping Beauty Suite):


Note: you can only see the top of his head--a slightly lighter shade of brown hair compared to his pure-blood Asian section mates (he can thank his muggle parents for that) :) He's in the 1st violin section, just behind the white-sleeved giant in the front row. You can finally see Erik briefly when they all stand up at the end to bow.

If you saw Tiffany's Instagram post this summer, you know about Erik sadly deciding to quit the violin last May. The short story: without even knowing Erik's plans to quit, his teacher invited him to play in this concert--this provided enough meaningful purpose for him to keep playing.
My little maestro was very close to quitting this instrument six short weeks ago, on account of "sounding terrible" (his words, not mine) and deriving very little enjoyment from practicing his scales and exercises. Truthfully, he threw a little emotional tantrum every day during practice and a more elaborate spectacle before his weekly lesson (though I don't condone these outbursts, I recognize that particularly for a perfectionist, string instruments are beastly to learn). Reluctantly, we gave him permission to withdraw from his music school. Before sharing this decision with his teacher, she extended a serendipitous invitation for Erik to join a summer junior orchestra. The repertoire is far beyond his current ability, but she expressed confidence in his work ethic and he willingly signed on. Everything changed, just like that. I never have to remind him to practice anymore--he just picks up his violin and plugs away at beautiful orchestral arrangements and his technical level has skyrocketed! His first rehearsal was distressing, as he focused on the performance gap between himself and his peers, but that's motivated him to quickly close that gap. Kyle and Libby were so inspired that Kyle went out and bought a viola (and has become quite good already) and Libby signed on to start cello lessons this fall. We're now dreaming of our family string ensemble, and none of this would've transpired if Erik had gone through with his reasonable plan to quit. That's the power of purpose, folks. He had the potential, he had the passion, but only with a thrilling, fulfilling sense of purpose in his playing did it all come alive.
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Erik's heartfelt focus this summer was bringing the joy of the violin to himself and others; we are so proud of him for sticking with it. In fact, we've all benefited from this decision (even baby Cosie requests "Schomkomfsgee" (Tchaikovsky) to lull herself to sleep these days). Since Erik can be particularly hard on himself, I hope the memory of this experience will remind him of how meaningful purpose drives greatness (which helped him endure many hours of difficult practice).

Sidenote: I'm of the school of thought that music shouldn't just be listened to--it should be felt. Without feeling, musical expression becomes mechanical and empty, void of any substantial meaning or inspiration. Whether it's Chopin or De La Soul, Miles Davis or Led Zeppelin, music is an emotional gift from the creator to the listener and should be treated as such.
Erik and his teacher, Rebekah, after the concert.

Friday, July 7, 2017

A Tribute to Kelly the Bat

1:17 PM
I was finishing up breakfast when I heard Erik from outside yelling, 'There is a bat out here!' I was surprised, because I didn't think bats lived near this area. I quickly ran outside and Erik led me to the bat. He was about four inches tall and lying on the rocky road. I realized immediately that this bat was injured, so I called for my mom and we edged the bat onto a piece of paper using a stick. After moving the baby bat to a more shady area, I decided to remember this bat forever as Kelly.
In the process of moving Kelly, we realized that he was bleeding a lot. He had a gash on the middle of his back, and one of the bones in his wing was broken and crooked. A bunch of birds had attacked him. It was then that I realized that I could not save Kelly. He was far beyond our help. I felt my spirits drop. I was weighed down. We left him there in the shade as we prepared for a bat-burial.  When I came back a few minutes later, I saw that Kelly had pushed himself off of the paper and was trying to move himself in a different direction. I suddenly had hope. Maybe he could heal. He certainly was gaining strength!

We started trying to feed him fruit, and we used a shell to pour water into his open mouth. He was so cute. We started laughing instead of being sad. We then decided, that if he had enough energy to move around, we could move him to our porch and tend him there. We could feed and take care of him until he was healed. As we were transferring him, he stopped moving. He went rigid.
We took him into the backyard and watched him laying there. He was still breathing, but his eyes were closed and he didn't move. I felt so empty and sad inside when I realized that  Kelly would not make it. We remembered that he still had bad wounds, and that his twisted bone could never heal.  He clung to a stick, and stayed in that position. I was able to draw a picture of him before ants swarmed his body.

  We went back to check on him a few times over the coming hours, and realized each time that he was still alive. At this point I panicked. I didn't know what to do. He had been suffering so long already!  I cried, seeing the slow, agonizing death that Kelly was enduring. I started freaking out as I realized that Kelly had a lot more wounds then I originally perceived.

We called a family meeting on the matter, and were met with two possible solutions: to leave him there to slowly be killed by the ants and his wounds, or to put him out of his misery right there and then. We discussed our opinions on both, and even though we did not like it at all, we knew that putting him out of his misery was the most humane thing to do. We all were deeply saddened by the idea. We did not want to hurt him. But after suffering for so long, we would only be helping him.
Even though I knew it was best for Kelly, I despised the idea. Every part of me fought against it. I had to keep telling myself: it's okay. We are doing this for Kelly. This is the best thing we can do for him.

My dad put poor little Kelly out of his misery right after the meeting. We all buried him together and placed a rock over his grave (inscribed by Amelia). We each shared a few words of mourning and comfort.

We love you Kelly. You were so cute and fluffy. You were a fighter even after those birds attacked you. You made us so happy, and we truly miss you. We hope you are happy and whole now. I hope I always remember you, Kelly.

Friday, June 16, 2017

Fear? Ain't Nobody Got Time for That! (Heights, Scorpions, Bats, etc.)

11:20 AM
Fear is a natural emotion that helps us avoid harm--and we experience a lot of it in our large, soft-hearted family (e.g. killer bees, fear that Voldemort is hiding in the bathroom...). Typically, there is a low likelihood of any real danger, making our fears irrational. These kind of fears don't really serve a purpose and cause unnecessary grief. As such, we've been on a mission to face our irrational fears, so we can punch those phobias right in the throat.

Here are some examples:

Fear of Heights
Knowing Erik's fear of heights, I was pleasantly surprised he wanted to conquer that fear at ESCAPE Adventure Park for his birthday. They have far-reaching zip lines, rock climbing, high ropes obstacle courses, and much more. Of course we didn't make the kids do anything they didn't feel comfortable doing, but by the end of the day they wanted to do most everything, even Amelia (though she had a slow start).
It was really fun to see Amelia's mental journey throughout the day. Our first activity was a ropes course, which seemed to be designed for folks much bigger than Amelia's cute little 5-year-old self. In fact, she got stuck multiple times in some of the obstacles, requiring park assistance. She repeated to herself, "I regret this!" in the most adorably concerned voice ever. However, by the end of the day, she built up enough confidence to love every minute of these high thrills, including Atan's Leap (see below). You braveheart, man. You braveheart.

Atan's Leap was the most fearsome attraction for the day: a 12m (~40ft) and 20m (~65ft) jump off a tower. We were safely harnessed, of course, but that initial leap still required a huge dose of courage. The park allowed the kids to do the 12m jump (multiple times each) and reserved the 20m jump for adults only. Check out the footage below:
As a result, Erik's greatest birthday gift was overcoming his fear of heights--so proud of him! He considers himself "cured" (of an irrational fear of heights). This is a big deal for him.

Fear of Bugs
Erik is also an extreme bug lover who chases away pest control guys, cries when we smash the ant trail streaming out of our pantry, and once got a book entitled, How to Convince Your Parents to get you a Pet Tarantula (which didn't work, btw...). However, his bug-loving ways haven't necessarily transferred to the rest of us, and actually he's not a fan of handling bugs himself--he just likes to look at them.

Last week we celebrated Charlie's birthday at Entopia, an insect museum, and had the chance to handle a disgusting scorpion, fascinating rhinoceros beetles (and a giant rhino grub), a 6-inch long millipede, and other creepy crawlies. Did you know that, for its size, the rhino beetle is the strongest animal on the planet and can lift 850 times it's own weight... that's like me dead lifting 70 minivans at once... what???!!!
The employee said that this breed of scorpion only has a "mild" venom--if stung, you'd be sick for "just a couple days." Is that supposed to be funny? However, this kind rarely stings, preferring to use its pincers when threatened. The experience was definitely Fear Factor material and Amelia was the first/most enthusiastic volunteer.

We also encountered other wild creepers in Indonesia a couple weeks ago, like the nastiest poisonous centipede imaginable (below), giant forest ants the size of a quarter, and even a cockroach in the hotel bed. And look--we survived and are now less stressed by some of our irrational fears, understanding a little more about the boundaries of safety.
The lesson for the kids was that just seeing something nasty doesn't mean it will harm you even if it is capable; it usually requires an imminent threat to justify an attack. We can still be grossed out, but no longer have to be paralyzed by fear.

Fear of Snakes
I learned that lesson long ago while hiking many trails in Rocky Mountain rattlesnake territory. There were times I saw rattlesnakes, but I learned to peacefully coexist. As a result, I could enjoy some of the most breathtaking mountains in the world. The existence of snakes--or any possible danger--shouldn't automatically inhibit our ability to enjoy the world's joys and wonders. YOLO!
You may have already read about our experience at the Penang Snake Temple. I will add, though, that we encountered a Wagler's pit viper in the Indonesian jungle. Our guide reconfirmed what we learned previously about the snake's character. This validated the fact that although there is technically potential for danger, our fear of it was irrational because we now understood how to behave; they are nocturnal and extremely shy. There are boundaries to learn and respect; problems usually only arise when people act inappropriately, like when trying to kill it.
FLYING SNAKE! Below is an amazing paradise tree snake we encountered on my birthday hike this year. And guess what--this cutie can fly! This guy can flatten its body like a ribbon, waving its underbelly for incredible air control. Don't believe me? Here's a PBS NATURE video that explains the science of the flying snake (queued up to the coolest part). We loved observing this cutie; it was even more rewarding to study it further at home.
Fear of Bats
Taking a lesson from Bruce Wayne, we also spent some time with bats. We later learned that these "Malayan flying foxes" are the largest bats in the world with a wingspan of almost 5 ft. Though the scientific name Pteropus Vampyrus seems to imply a thirst for blood, they actually only eat fruit, nectar, flowers, and pollen. I was shocked that only 3 of 1,100 species of bats consume blood! These demonized vegetarians have a major branding problem...
Not surprisingly, they aren't nearly as dangerous and frightening as we had thought... and maybe even a little bit charming. Sure, it has nasty sharp claws, pointy ribbed ears, huge leathery wings, and a crazy thumb-like dagger appendage coming out mid-wing. It may be weird but not necessarily scary. Unless it has rabies--then it IS scary (but highly unlikely--the CDC states that in the US, human cases of rabies only total 1-2 a year).

Performance Anxiety
Switching gears a little, several of us have talents that subject us to performance fears and anxiety.  Nothing gets your heart thumping like the intense vulnerability performers know--your preparation time is over and it's just you in front of a crowd with nowhere to hide. This skills "test" can be intimidating to even the most seasoned veterans.

Meilin often thrives in this environment--her natural expressiveness lights up the stage in musical theater. She loves the adrenaline rush of performing (one production included 50 live performances and stage fright evaded her every time). However, playing piano in front of others is a different story--mentally, she's swinging from the chandeliers.
Last month she accompanied the youth choir at our church's District Conference. This was in front of a large unfamiliar crowd for a special worship service. She had to muscle through some nervous mistakes in the first verse, but by the third verse she nailed it! As a kid, I wouldn't have had the guts to do that.

Then last Saturday, she was asked to fill in as pianist for our local congregation, giving her less than a day to prepare. This included playing prelude music, congregational hymns, and postlude music. Though an average human nose could smell her nervousness from about 5 meters away, she played through the fear brilliantly. At one point, she made a mistake and couldn't find her place for several measures-- she panicked a little, regrouped, and picked right back up again. What a pro!

Side note: the myth of perfection is extremely dangerous because of course it's unattainable. Mistakes are a requirement for overcoming perfectionist fears and unrealistic expectations. We stunt our growth when we avoid doing difficult things because we fear failure (a trap I have found myself in, as well as our two perfectionist children). We can work through mistakes no matter how big or small, and life goes on. Progression should be measured, not perfection. If this is your mindset, your alleviated grief bone will thank you regularly.

Final Thoughts
Facing an irrational fear demystifies it, bringing an understanding of more realistic outcomes. It also enables a dramatic power shift from the paralyzing emotion of phobia to the courage center of your mighty brain. The new experience allows you to sustain your newfound courage into the future. Facing fears in a safe environment breeds the confidence needed to maximize personal freedom and happiness.

By nature, I am a worrier. It's something I've been working on for years! As a kid, my mom convinced me that my "creative" worries were evidence of imaginative genius (also please appreciate my mullet, below). Her attitude helped me discover some hidden value in my fears, bringing a secret pride to my anxious kid mind. This resulted in more creative pursuits and I'm a better person because of it. However, this attitude did keep my worries unchecked well into adulthood, though less so during those seemingly invincible teenage years before my brain fully developed... (but that's another story.)
Dale Carnegie's book How to Stop Worrying and Start Living helped me start with a few techniques that I still use weekly, if not daily, with myself or my kids. My favorite tactic is to mentally work through a perceived worst case scenario, considering its likelihood of playing out. And since I feel mentally prepared for a worst case scenario, it makes facing a less-than-desirable situation much more manageable.

FDR famously said, "The only thing to fear is fear itself." We're taking a proactive approach to managing our fears-- we've faced 9 of these top 10 fears in the past month! There is much more conquering ahead of us, but we've gotten a great start.

In a world fraught with danger and uncertainty, we do need to be vigilant and aware of our surroundings, but our fears need not paralyze us... or even change our behavior unless there is a reasonable chance that our fears will play out. If the fear is unlikely, we can improve our quality of life by defeating it.

Sunday, June 4, 2017

Volcano Survival Stories from a Ghost Town

10:22 PM
I have been haunted by this 'ghost town' ever since our visit (figuratively speaking, of course). The short story: citizens abandoned their family homes to survive deadly eruptions from a reactivated volcano. Now it's an eerie ash-covered memorial of their past.

Click here to see amazing eruption images (opens a Google Image search in a new window).

Mt. Sinabung lay dormant for about 400 years until 2010 when it reengaged with reckless abandon. Within those centuries of peaceful existence, people settled near its base and farmed its nourishing volcanic soil. Now it erupts 2-5 times a day, with a couple strong eruptions every year. All people living within in the government imposed "red zone" (4 km radius from the volcano) were forced to relocate.
I hoped to get a good vantage point from the top of a neighboring (but less active) volcano, Mt. Sibayak. Mt. Sinabung was covered with clouds almost the entire day, so this is the only clear shot I got of a small eruption (even though there are 2-5 eruptions a day).
The Pantomimes of a Local Survivor
Driving in, I was surprised to see some of the locals still there. We met about a dozen that were tending to fields and animals. We learned that the villagers are allowed to return in the day, but are forbidden to sleep overnight. One lady (below) engaged with us. I initially interpreted her approach as a signal that she didn't want us snooping around her tragedy. It turns out, it was quite the opposite; she wanted to share her story with us. And we REALLY wanted to hear it.
Unfortunately, we don't know Indonesian. She spoke as if we'd miraculously learn it before the end of her story, but that didn't happen. Her charades conveyed a few basic facts: she ran from falling ash and made it out alive. But since I had already assumed these details, this conversation left me seriously wanting. She had survived something incredible; her story was right there for me to take, yet I couldn't grasp it! I desperately wanted to offer some sense of heartfelt connection, expressing sincere interest her experience, and I lacked the language to convey it with words. This seriously frustrated me.
This man can't live here anymore, but he's allowed to return in the day to work his fields. Some of these people who return daily to farm their lands now live over an hour away since being displaced. So, not only did they lose their homes and community, but will also lose 2+ hours out of every day, indefinitely.
A Narrow Escape
Earlier in the day, while watching a small eruption through binoculars atop a neighboring volcano (less active), we asked our guide about Mt. Sinabung's dangers on a day-to-day basis. He told us that a few years back he and his best friend from childhood were hiking the active volcano. When an eruption came, he miraculously survived by finding shelter "under a big rock" just as hot debris pounded the area. Sadly, though, the volcano took his friend, which understandably has been difficult for him to process. He had survived, but his best friend didn't. He carefully guarded his emotion, subtly implying just how deeply the experience still affected him.
Our guide considers the cloudy mountain's destructive power while standing on a 3-foot tall mound of ash. The village used to extend down the ridge to this area. Now there are no traces of civilization here.
Victory
In many cases, these abandoned homes and land had been in the family for generations. One kind man invited us into his family home just as he was leaving at dusk. He thankfully spoke a little English.  As we walked in, he lit a small candle and showed us around, pointing out the religious pictures on the wall. The inside was previously covered in a carpet of ash (still noticeable around the edges), but he has cleaned it up nicely. I thought he takes very good care of the house considering that no one can ever live in it again. He proudly showed us around.
This man's grandfather helped establish the village many years ago, which only increased the emotional difficulty to leave. This is his home; I believe it's where he grew up. He had survived, but still longed to be here even though the government forbids it. In much of the world, there is a strong connection between the land and identity (something some of my fellow Americans don't quite grasp; we have a relatively short history, high mobility, and plenty of land). Take land away and these people lose a piece of themselves. This theme is at the core of many domestic and international disputes.
When I asked this man's name, he said: "Victory." How powerful! True, though being a survivor is not the same as being a victor (I mean, how does a farmer defeat a volcano?). His real victory comes from defeating his internal struggles resulting from his displacement and loss. I have so much respect for him and his family and am sincerely thankful he was willing to share a glimpse of his family's survival story. What a meaningful education that sank deep into our hearts.

Conclusion
This is the real world, my friends. There are amazing people hidden all around us who have experienced something incredibly difficult, and survived. This sometimes painful world mass-produces "survivors" through our human experiences with natural disasters, sickness, addiction, accidents, injustice, mental illness, among many others. Whether the stimulus comes from a volcano or just making it through another day in middle school, to be human is to be a survivor. The basic instinct to survive is in our genetic makeup. Furthermore, surviving creates depth in our character as we become victors over the pains of our human experience.

While most of us don't have a deadly volcano in our backyard, we have a lot in common with these inspiring people. I think this is why I feel such a strong attachment with this remote ghost town--they inspired me. In the moment, our hardships may seem unbearable. However, life goes on and we find a way to make it through, though changed.

Bonus Pics
Take note of the caked-on layer of ash, burn designs in the wood siding (from the hot ash), knocked out piece of roof, and some remains of a melted plastic banner on the side of the house.
There was a big difference in the condition of tile homes and wooden homes. Tile can be wiped down clean with minimal visible damage to the outside, often revealing some bright colors. The wooden ones--even if brushed off--looked like they had been uninhabited since the 1800s (not unlike gold rush 'ghost towns' I have visited in the western US).

The state of the homes and belongings was so deteriorated that it was hard to believe this was a prosperous, flourishing town only a few short years ago.
Charlie's favorite part of the abandoned town was treasure hunting (if you've read the Our Family section of the blog, you know he aspires to grow up to be Wall-E: a collector of trash treasures). Our guide kept trying to sell me on the idea of giving Charlie this rusty old oil lamp as a souvenir... I insisted that a picture would suffice.

The big sheets of material in the left picture are pieces of the ceiling that had caved-in.
Here's some other left behind remnants of the eruptions. Notice the deformed/melted plastic, layer of ash on almost all surfaces inside and out, clothes still out to dry (just as they were left), and other belongings that seem untouched. 
This must have been a magnificent banyan tree. It burned down in the big eruption in May 2016. I would have loved to see it while alive, but I was 1-year too late.
Apparently this is a nice NEW (expensive) moto. The assumption is that the owner used government relief funds intended for other use (housing, food, etc.). Without remembering the details of the story, I could tell there is some animosity toward this individual's behavior, whether or not the funding assumption was true or only perceived.

I dare say this scenario could be played out in almost any country where there's a perception of unequal distribution of government resources (OK, all countries?).
The edge of civilization. I was told that houses used to line small stream below, but now there is nothing left. You can only see the very bottom of the volcano--the rest is hidden by clouds.
Here's a large mound of compressed and hardened ash. It's amazing to think of the force needed to blow this much material out of that mountain... Ash flew 12,000 ft in the sky.

Friday, June 2, 2017

Welcome to the Jungle! Part 2 (Pirates Of The Rainforest)

11:10 PM
While staying in Indonesia, we spent a few nights in Bukit Lawang. Bukit Lawang is known as a popular tourist destination because of the nearby rainforest and variety of wildlife (including orangutans). To read my dad's input on our jungle trek, click here. Our lodging was a bamboo tree house (minus the tree); the backyard was a jungle river. However, what we didn't realize is that outlaw monkeys run this town.
At check-in, the owners warned us to always lock the doors and windows when we leave, because monkeys will come inside and steal your stuff. These monkeys aren't ones you want to mess with--they will bare their inch-long fangs if you look at them in the eye.
Often, these monkeys sat on our balcony and stared into the house, inspecting our every move and eyeing our goods. Several times they caught us by surprise eating a snack on the balcony, quickly swinging over with greedy ambition. They rushed to the scene to find us running indoors and turning the lock. But these monkeys were determined. They watched us and paced outside our door for a good 45 minutes, keeping us under pirate house arrest.
If you notice above, this guy vandalized our hand-washed clothes that we had just laid out to dry. After he left, we noticed that the rebellious rascal had pooped my pants! Literally!

We ended up doing a extra load of laundry that night, with vengeful thoughts toward that outlaw monkey. But we couldn't even get revenge, because monkeys don't wear clothes...
Another time they saw Cosie eating a sliver of bread and they were positive it was meant for them. You can only guess what they were saying:
"You tried the door?"
"Yeah."
"Have you tried the bathroom window?"
"No."
"Try it. We must have the succulent crust!"
They sure tried every option, and luckily we caught them every time. They tried pushing the door open, they tried slipping through narrow window spaces in the bathroom (above), they even tried squeezing through a crack by the roof (with success, once). They watched us through the glass windows, waiting for the right moment to attack. They weren't scared away by our verbal threats, but eventually we learned that they don't like being sprayed with cold water or being threatened with a big bamboo stick.

Then, there was the time I was doing a video review of snakefruit on the balcony. I was nervous about a monkey perched on a nearby roof. After peeling the fruit, he started jumping towards us--we ran inside and locked the door just in time:

All-in-all, monkeys can be pretty cute. Watching them play is pretty adorable, and seeing the babies... what can be cuter? But nobody can deny that monkeys are the Pirates of the Rainforest.

Monday, May 29, 2017

Welcome to the Jungle! Part 1 (Indonesian Deforestation + Orangutans!)

2:54 AM
This 10-day trip to Indonesia will go down in the Larsen annals as some of the most magical days of all. The adventure started with orangutan trekking in Northern Sumatra. Indonesian rainforests are among the most bio-diverse environments in the world. Sadly, Indonesia is now the global leader in deforestation, and the rate doesn't seem to be slowing down. This is one of the main reasons we wanted to come here now--to see the Sumatran rainforest before it's too late.

And yes--you can jungle trek with little kids too...
Deforestation + Jerky Roads
Traveling inland, we passed through many miles of palm oil plantations. Palm plantations are a major cause of rapid deforestation in Indonesia. Our driver was forced to yield to domineering plantation trucks that seemed to be in constant flow, spewing clouds of noxious fumes from its behind. The country drive was equally confusing and thought-provoking as we considered the impact of these plantations; naturally magnificent palm trees in unnaturally straight rows. It was beautifully hypnotizing as I stared down the lines, yet it made me uncomfortable to think of the environmental cost.
To be fair, I don't know the history of these particular plantations to claim they are contributors to deforestation, so I don't mean to demonize them specifically. However, they certainly were symbolic of the greater problem in Indonesia, challenging the survival of critically endangered animals (orangutans, tigers, elephants, rhinos, etc.), not to mention the well-being of the planet as a whole. As such, I couldn't keep my eyes off the land.
It took about 4-hours of beat up and bumpy roads to get to our destination from the nearest commercial airport. This resulted in sore necks, toddler tantrums, and an unresolved sleep deficit from the early flight. The roads were seriously a joke. They brought all the unexpected jerks of the Indiana Jones ride at Disneyland without any of the thrills (or pyrotechnics!). Nevertheless, Amelia and Cosie somehow found an acceptable position for some shut eye:
A few miles beyond the middle of nowhere, Planet Earth, we arrived at the lovely village of Bukit Lawang: the gateway to the beautifully lush Gunung Leuser National Park. My heart leaped with excitement--this was the ultimate hike of my boy scout dreams!
Orangutans!
As we AdventureBuffet our way through life, we try to find unique experiences for the family. To us, trekking for critically endangered orangutans was at the top of our list... and there are only two places in the world to see them in their natural habitat: the jungles of Sumatra and Borneo. Some say if we don't slow the rate of deforestation, Sumatran orangutans may be extinct in less than 10 years. We hired a few local guides and made our way into the jungle.

As soon as we entered the forest, Amelia (5) started a major crying fit (ironically, right after we went over the rules about staying quiet to not disturb the wildlife). While I was stressing because nothing would calm her, one of the guides spotted an orangutan approaching us. She was investigating the noise. This means, much to the chagrin of park rules, Amelia's crying had actually attracted the orangutan (this tactic is not recommended...). Amelia was still grumpy, but did quiet down enough for a look at these majestic creatures.

It was an emotional experience for me to see this first orangutan in the wild, its long orange hair flickering in the sun through the leaves. It came closer and brought its beautiful baby over for us to adore. I imagine the mom was just as curious about our baby (2-year-old) as we were of hers. Though our guides helped us keep a safe distance (staying between us and the animals), they came much closer than expected! Now, tell me her baby isn't adorable:

In a clever risk management move, the mom split up our group by blocking the path and carefully watched our every move to ensure her baby's safety.
The next orangutan we encountered was very pregnant, but that didn't seem to slow her down. I loved watching how graceful she and the others moved through the trees. They are massively strong and never seem to tire from hanging from branches. To emphasize how similar they are to humans, one of our guides kept saying that orangutans share 97% of human DNA. While that is true, the remaining 3% makes a pretty big difference--just look at her massive hands:
The fourth orangutan we encountered was a rude awakening. I honestly only saw an orangey blob before I heard the guides yelp: "It's a male!" and switched over to the Indonesian language. I could tell they were a little nervous as they frantically tried to get us all up the steep incline to safety. Apparently, this guy has tried to steal bags before (to look for food, not trying to hurt people--but they are so strong they could accidentally hurt someone, like Mr. Incredible!). The guides were so good to us and very professional--they knew just what to do. This male just leaped out of the bushes and came toward us--which admittedly was pretty scary. Like some human males I've known, our guides told us that male orangutans can be aggressive. And they are HUGE!
Once we were in relative safety up the trail, one guide stayed behind to lure the male away from us. We'd take different path while Jay, the "sacrificial guide" as I called him, planned to meet up with us later. Before separating, Jay asked me to lend him my camera and he'd try to get some pics for me. It was a good 45-minutes before we saw Jay again, and the whole time I had to keep telling myself that he's ok... and he was, of course. We moved so quickly, I really only got to see the male orangutan from his pictures--and this guy is pure beast.
If I was in a dark alley and had to meet either this guy or Chewbacca, I'd pick Chewbacca any day. Even if that day was Halloween... and I was dressed as a stormtrooper.

Further in the jungle, we met another mother and baby. The baby loved to nurse, which was so precious! I guess this mom's name is Yuli (sp?) and they believe the baby daddy is that nightmare-of-a-creature above. The guides knew the names of the orangutans that frequent the area and you could tell that they really loved these animals. We chose the guide company based on their reviews about respecting the animals and jungle, and they did not disappoint. Our safety was their main concern.
Around lunchtime, Tiffany and the two youngest kids headed home early with the two extra guides while me and the older three kiddos continued for more trekking (the second half of the day was much more strenuous). However, all of us returned home via rafting down the jungle river to our village--what an exhilarating way to end the trek of a lifetime!
Conclusion
In the end, it was an eye opening experience for me, to contrast the jungle in its unadulterated state with the palm plantations up to the very borders of protected land. To think that these life-giving rainforests may soon be illegally logged and/or "accidentally" burned down so they can plant more palm plantations makes my heart break. And while I wouldn't consider myself a tree-hugger quite yet, I definitely see myself becoming more so as I get older (and maybe wiser?). 

I left this trip thinking about what more I can do to help Mother Earth. If we all make a small sacrifice (like recycling instead of trashing or consciously avoiding unsustainable palm oil products), we'd move the needle a little bit more in the right direction. While changing behavior is a process, I'm going to do better. Not necessarily because of endangered orangutans, drifting polar bears, or climate change in general, but because it just feels right.
Bonus Pics
Water monitor
Here's a surprised long-tailed macaque that stole a banana peel from us. Another one soon took an entire bunch of bananas while our backs were turned. Meilin calls these guys the "pirates of the jungle."
Pig-tailed macaque (same family as baboon)
Group picture just before separating.
Fruit break! First time trying fresh pineapple with passion fruit drizzled on top (top right fruit in pic). The sweet/tart combo is amazing!!!!
Our guides were so good with the kids. I don't think they get many kids through here, and yet they were absolutely phenomenal. They were extra careful of their needs and safety throughout the hike.
Thank goodness for this vine--we basically had to rappel down this wall...
Boys got their faces painted like Tigers using some clay stones--Meilin got a facial.
River valley through the jungle.
We were already soaking wet from the hike, so we jumped in the cool water with clothes/shoes on--a total refreshing blast! It looks really shallow, but by the falls it went up to my chest. I decided that the older kids had to touch the falls, which they all did. Charlie was hesitant, but I dragged him in as we were both laughing the whole way. So fun!
Charlie's dream culture--you get to eat with your hands! Honestly, I don't blame him. It's got to be the most efficient eating tool.
Poisonous centipede. We were told that this sucker will send you straight to the hospital...
My favorite kind of tree: Banyan. Each one is beautifully unique because it's a parasite that grows out of a host tree (often killing it and leaving a hollow middle).

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